Vionnet Offers A Masterclass In Draping
Vionnet's Autumn/Winter 16 collection was full of subtle draping and Grecian goddess dresses at Paris Fashion Week on Wednesday evening (02Mar16).
The label closed out proceedings, presenting a line which was full of dark colours and chic lines. One of the first models down the runway boasted a burnt orange jumpsuit, which had an asymmetric top with one small sleeve. This gave way to a pair of wide-legged trousers with a large ruffle down one side.
Next was a similar jumpsuit but in classic navy blue with cream piping, although this time it was in a satin fabric with long sleeves.
As time went on things became a little sexier, with mesh panels in full-length gowns and transparent sleeves offering a hint of what lay beneath the dresses without allowing things to become trashy.
Some dresses had intricately draped tops, offering a new take on strapless with layers of fabric ruffled down the front.
During the mid section of the show the label's designer Hussein Chalayan debuted his take on daywear. Probably a little dressier than many of us would choose for a day in the office, this was relaxed dressing which still packed a style punch. A pair of trousers first appeared to be a monochrome diamond pattern, but on closer inspection the white sections were actually transparent. These were paired with a mannish, oversized, blazer, complete with gold button and giant black lapels. Androgynous dressing at its very best.
Of course there were show-stopping pieces too, with shades of blue and orange the order of the day at the end of the presentation. One fitted navy gown boasted a subtle fishtail skirt, while the top section was a delicately pleated fan which fell from one side of the model's chest to the other. More architecture was present in the final look - a pale blue jumpsuit with a built in sleeveless cape, full length and white flew open as the model strutted the runway to reveal the burnt orange lining.
In contrast, the previous show by Christophe Lemaire was awash with trousers. Included was a felt pair featuring satin seams, with white cotton, velvet and denim versions also presented. Some were dropped, others were long. There were wide-legged versions, culottes and pretty much everything in between, teamed with long coats and boxy jackets. Although highly wearable, this wasn't the most exciting show of the season.
Paris Fashion Week continues on Thursday (03Mar16) with presentations by Chloe, Balmain, Rick Owens and Lanvin.