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Elie Saab’s Exquisite Spring ’16 Couture Show
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Elie Saab’s Spring ’16 couture collection was simply put, epic. The first garment on the runway, a creme Victorian inspired full length dress with broderie anglaise trimming set the tone for the evening. Casual silhouettes had gone to embroidery heaven, AKA India. The women adorned with delicate wire tiaras confirming our heavenly suspicions.
“Enter India,”the program of the show proclaimed. The muse of his new couture collection, the notes went on to explain, was a turn-of-the-last-century Englishwoman on a trip to the subcontinent. “India is her backdrop and her inspiration for a new blend of formalism and ease, opulence and elementary lines.”
The formalization and ease was sensed in the heavier embellished short jackets, these were lightened up with silk culottes that fluttered as they walked. The Elie Saab woman, a free-spirited being that is ready to conquer the world, Dr. Martens and all.
The introduction of street wear into Elie Saab’s Haute Couture collection gave it an intoxicatingly youthful exuberance. The women in the audience all wanting to be these pretty young things with their embroidered minis and hippie inspired tops. These women were going places with their hat boxes and cross-body handbags, and we all wanted to be them.
Gone is the va-va-voom vixen of seasons past, in her place a more innocently sexy woman, similar perhaps in attitude to the Gucci woman that inspires the work of Alessandro Michele. On her feet metallic Dr. Martens or flat thick-strapped medicinal sandals. The better to take them places…